Use the knife for cutting "knife suitable" materials ONLY - flesh, fruits and vegetables, wood, leather, rubber, cordage, etc., NOT metal.
Keep the knife sharp, but DO NOT sharpen it on a motorized grinding device.
Keep non-stainless blades lightly oiled.
Don't immerse the knife in water for an extended period. Getting it wet won't hurt, but it is not a diving knife. Dry it thoroughly after use, but don't use excessive heat. DO NOT PUT IT IN THE DISHWASHER.
Don't throw the knife, pry with the blade, or use it for a screwdriver, paint scraper or chisel.
Do be careful. Knives, like all cutting implements, can cause injury if misused. Be sure to practice basic knife safety, and keep all knives out of the reach of children.
Blades
Most Scandinavian blades stay sharp longer, but are often a bit more brittle than blades from other sources. Some of my knives have blades made by a lamination process. These blades consist of a core of very hard, edge-holding steel supported by layers of much softer durable steel. This allows the cutting edge to be formed of steel that would be too fragile to be used for the entire blade. As with all knives, the thin edge and narrow point are the vulnerable areas. These areas can be chipped or broken if care is not taken. Avoid prying, and do not twist or bend the knife if it becomes stuck in material you are cutting. All blades should be cleaned and dried after use. This is especially important with the non-stainless blades. Before storage wipe the non-stainless blades with a "gun rag" and/or coat lightly with Boeshield T-9 (what I use), WD-40 or a similar corrosion-inhibiting lubricant.
Handles
My handles are made predominantly of traditional, natural materials. These are beautiful, functional materials but are not as "zero-maintenance" as space-age plastics. The handles are deeply impregnated with a natural tung oil solution. Unlike many modern "instant" finishes, tung oil penetrates and slowly polymerizes to form a tough integral finish rather than forming a thin film on the surface. This penetration/polymerization process takes several weeks to fully cure, and results in a very durable finish. Wipe dirt and blood off the handle with a damp rag. If the handle begins to look dry and dull after use, it can be waxed with a good quality paste floor wax. Twice a year the handle should be re-oiled. First wrap the blade with several layers of masking tape for safety, then apply a very small amount of Formby's Tung Oil Finish or a similar product. Rub in thoroughly and wipe off all excess. Tung oil products are available at most hardware stores and home improvement centers. If the handle gets scuffed, sand the spot lightly, finishing with the finest sandpaper available (400 grit or finer), then re-oil as described. Wax the handle after the finish has dried thoroughly.
Sheaths
The leather sheaths are finished by impregnating with several coats of a penetrating wax product. They can be periodically re-treated with a boot dressing such as Nik-Wax Paste or Sno-Seal. If the sheath should become soaked and lose its shape, wrap the DRY knife tightly with a layer of plastic food wrap, and place in the sheath. Do NOT use heat; the sheath will dry to its original form. Treat the sheath again with boot dressing when dry.
Be careful! Knives, like all cutting implements, can cause injury if misused. Be sure to practice basic knife safety and keep all knives out of the reach of children.
Use the knife for cutting "knife suitable" materials ONLY - meat, breads, fruits and vegetables, string, paper, etc., NOT large bones or metal.
Keep the knife sharp, but DO NOT sharpen it on a motorized grinding device.
Cut on a suitable surface such as a wooden or plastic cutting board. Never cut on ceramic tile or in a metal container.
Clean the knife by wiping with a damp dishrag or sponge. Dry it thoroughly. Do not leave the knife immersed in water for an extended period. DO NOT PUT THE KNIFE IN A DISHWASHER.
Don't open cans with the blade, pry with it, or use it as a screwdriver or scraper. Except for cleavers, don't use the knife to chop large bones.
Blades
Most of the blades used in Isbjörn knives are a bit harder than those of most commercial kitchen knives. This is good from the standpoint of maintaining a sharp edge, but means the blade can be chipped if care is not taken. Do not throw the knife into the sink, or allow the blade to bang against other metal utensils.
Handles
My handles are made predominantly of traditional, natural materials. These are beautiful, functional materials but are not as "zero-maintenance" as space-age plastics. The handles are deeply impregnated with a natural tung oil solution. While this finish is highly water resistant, it is not totally impervious to water like the molded plastic handles of many commercial kitchen knives. For longest life and most attractive appearance, keep the handles as dry as is practically possible. Short-term wetness will not damage the handle, but prolonged immersion will dull the finish and may eventually cause cracks to develop. Wiping the blade with a damp dishrag or sponge after use is generally all the cleaning that is required. If the handle begins to look dry and dull after use it can be waxed with a good quality paste floor wax. The handle can also be periodically treated with mineral oil, or the oil products intended for butcher blocks and cutting boards.
Blade Guards
Most kitchen knives are supplied with wooden blade guards. These are usually finished in the same manner as the handles, and can be treated in the same way. Some of the guards are made from aromatic woods such as various cedars and California Laurel (Bay). These are generally left unfinished to allow appreciation of the aroma, but can be oiled or waxed if desired.